Thursday, January 10, 2008

Ringing in the New Year German Style, Location: Faaborg, Denmark

Yes my title might sound a bit contradictory - celebrating like a German without being in Germany, however, the Danish coast is a popular destination for German's to spend a holiday. In order to get the authentic experience of a German New Years I thought I should celebrate with some Germans - and Denmark happened to be the location of choice. I was invited to spend a few days in a rented house on the coast (pictured) with my friend Maya, her boyfriend Thorsten, and 11 other Germans (either friends of Thorsten's or friends of friends).
We departed from Braunschweig, Germany on the Saturday before New Years. Two red VW vans, one car, 14 people, and loads of luggage, and food set off for a 5 hour drive (including 1 hour on a ferry) to Faaborg, Denmark. Maya, Thorsten, Thorsten's friend Maike and I were in the car. The time passed quickly - all of us chatting (in German), singing along to music, and car dancing. We arrived in Faaborg, picked up the key to our lovely little house (pictured below), unloaded the cars, and then Maya, Thorsten and I set about making dinner.
One of Thorsten's friends - Henning - is a master organizer/planner and he had planned everything from the traveling to the cost to the shopping list. One of his ingenious ideas was to break us into cooking groups and each group be responsible for one night of cooking. The first night ended up being my groups turn - which worked out well as we made pizza (only with Fladenbrot, a Turkish flat bread so as not to have to mess with pizza dough).
After dinner we all sat around chatting and playing games. This was in fact how we spent most of our time in Denmark; eating, chatting, playing games, a little bit of tv watching, and during the day in order to enjoy the sunshine and the warmish weather we walked along the beach, and hit some golf balls. Overall it was very relaxing and a good way for me to improve my German language skills - total immersion.
In terms of the games we played, there were the typical card games like speed, Egyptian rat screw, BS, and poker. Then we played some German favorites like set (where you compete against people to make sets of cards based on rules), phase 10 which is sort of like Rummy only the requirements change each round, Cranium (which exists in the U.S. - this was incredibly difficult for me though. Difficult in English as it is advanced vocabulary and imitating celebrities, etc. but in German I'm afraid I was no help at all to my team), and then my personal favorite: Werewolf. I have found an explanation of the game at this website: http://www.eblong.com/zarf/werewolf.html and feel that it is a better explanation than my own would be.

So since the activities were mostly the same for the 3 days I was there, I feel that I can move on and describe our wonderful New Years celebration. Our celebration was traditionally German. The night before New Years we gathered around the Feuerzangbowle (pictured above). The Feuerzangbowle is basically a bowl of Gluehwein but then a metal tray is placed across the bowl and a solid cone of sugar is laid atop the metal tray, doused in rum, and then lit on fire. The fiery sugar melts and deposits itself in the bowl of Gluehwein - delicious! Most Germans celebrate the holiday with Feuerzangbowle and there is actually even a famous movie that is called "The Feuerzangbowle".

On New Years eve we had Raclette (pictured directly above) for dinner. For Raclette everyone gathers around grill objects and gets their own personal pan. Chopped vegetables, cold cuts, eggs, cheese, and whatever else one desires is all laid on the table and everyone then goes about creating their own little pans of food that are then cooked on the grill and eaten. It was a truly delicious item - but as with so many other holiday dishes it did encourage overeating. For dessert we had chocolate fondue. It seemed to compliment the Raclette well - both items containing primarily chopped produce that one makes less healthy by adding cheese (to the veggies) or chocolate (to the fruit).

After gorging ourselves - we settled around the TV to watch a British film (that is apparently loved in Germany on New Years - or Sylvester which is the German word). It is called "Dinner for One" and it lasts about 15 minutes. The movie is about a 90 year old woman who is celebrating her birthday. All of her friends have been deceased for at least 20 years, and so her butler assumes the role of all her friends for this special birthday dinner. Of course that means that he needs to drink for all 4 friends and offer a toast each time a new drink is poured. What follows is that the butler then becomes incredibly intoxicated and does some silly things like continuously trip over a rug, etc. It was entertaining to say the least.

When "Dinner for One" was over it was nearly midnight. We all headed outside to countdown the New Year. After counting down we popped open some champagne, lit sparklers, and wished each other a Happy New Year. Then we went down to the beach and lit off more fireworks. The entire night sky in Denmark was lit up with fireworks . It seemed that nearly every person in this small town was lighting off fireworks in celebration.

Once the fireworks were finished we headed back inside. There we participated in Bleigiessen (The tradition of melting lead over a candle and then dumping it quickly into cold water. The resulting object is supposed to be a "fortune" for the upcoming year) and my object looked like nothing that could be described - who knows what that means in terms of my next year. Once the Bleigiessen was finished we turned our attention back to playing games - all good fun.

Overall it was a New Years to remember. Now of course I am in need of returning to a normal healthy normal diet.

Happy 2008 everyone!

The End of Christmas Market Magic

Once again it has been awhile since my last blog posting. With all the time I have on my hands one would think that I would be better about posting, but alas I seem to constantly be procrastinating when I have so much time.
The Christmas Market season is now behind me - taking with it all the festive lights, craft/food booths, and cheery decorations that made the winter season a little less bleak here in Duisburg (and elsewhere). Gone are the days when one could stroll downtown and warm up in the middle of the afternoon with a piping hot mug of Gluehwein (sort of like mulled wine - a favorite here. I am posting a recipe below so that you may try if you wish) and some other tasty treat. There are of course other beverage options at Christmas markets but some of them I recommend steering clear of. For example Eierlikor or Eierpunsch (Egg liquor or Egg punch) cause you to think of egg nog, however, it is quite disgusting in that it tastes quite literally like eggs mixed with vodka or some other type of alcohol. If you are ever in Germany I recommend staying away from the Eierlikor and instead trying the Gluehwein (Glow wine is the literal translation).
During Christmas market season I did have the chance to explore many different culinary treats - both from Germany and abroad. Of course there were the classics that I have already tried like curry wurst (sausage cut into slices and doused in a curry ketchup sauce), Dutch style french fries (served in a paper cone with your choice of sauce), fish and chips (although not deep fried fish like one would expect - a twist on an old classic), and then various assortments of Chinese cuisine. One spectacular treat that I was introduced to was the Peruvian Stuffed Potato. It was found at the Essen (great name for a city with good food considering the word "essen" means food/eat in German) Christmas market and was absolutely amazing. I have since searched the web in order to find a recipe that roughly equates so that those interested (and I myself) may eat them whenever the mood strikes. Here is the recipe:

The recipe for Peruvian Stuffed Potatoes (Papa Rellena)

1/2 pound of hot, cooked, mashed potatoes
1/4 pound of ground beef (or other meat/filling item - at the market they had a mixture of rice, corn, cheese, and ham)
2 diced onions (small cubes about .5 cm thick)
Minced Garlic
Hard boiled eggs - as many as you would like to add to the filling (optional)

Knead potatoes until there are no lumps. Add salt (it didn't specify how much so I'm guessing just a bit to taste).

Heat oil and sautee garlic and onion. Control the heat and add meat (or other filling item). You can also add raisins and/or sliced olives to taste. When meat is cooked remove from heat. Allow the filling to cool.

Divide potatoes into servings (a good sized ball) and flatten with your hands. The potato patty should be about 1/4 inch thick. Potato should be cool. Place filling and optional sliced hard boiled egg into the potato patty. Roll the potato closed and pinch on the ends (I would say make it close to a runza/potato shape). Roll the "potato" in flour. Dip in a beaten egg. Fry the potato in abundant hot oil (my guess is that a fry daddy type item would work the best). When golden brown remove from oil with a slotted turner and place on a paper towel.

Top with a tomato sauce or lemon juice, a drizzle of oil, salt and diced parsley.

Gluehwein (there are of course other variations - feel free to experiment on your own)
1 bottle of dry red wine
1 lemon
1 orange
Cinammon Sticks (2-3)
Whole cloves (a tbsp.)
3 tbsp. of sugar
Cardamom or Ginger (optional and only use in small quantities to taste)

Heat the red wine in a pot (don't boil). Cut the lemon and orange into slices, squeeze slightly over the pot and then add the entirety to the wine. Add the cinnamon, cloves, sugar and a little cardamom (to taste). Heat everything on low and let stand for an hour (or a little longer). DO NOT BOIL!! Before serving strain out the fruit slices and spices and serve in mugs.



These items may have been served at Christmas markets, however, I believe that they go well with any winter day. A little warmth to brighten up the long dark nights. Cheers - or should I say Prost!